Cali, Colombia

I have two distinctive memories of Cali, Colombia: the warmth of the people I met and the dynamic dance culture that pulsated through the city. It’s a shame that Cali is often skipped over by visitors due to its perceived lack of tourist attractions and unfair reputation as a dangerous place. I loved my time in Cali, and it was the most authentic experience I had in Colombia!

In this guide to Cali, Colombia, I’ll do my best to capture the essence of this vibrant city, as well as provide information that will help you plan your own unforgettable trip here. 

For more Colombia travel tips and destination guides, head to my Colombia page.

Cali, Colombia History

Cali is located in Southwest Colombia and is the third most populated city in the country, after Bogotá and Medellín. If you’re traveling between Colombia and Ecuador you’ll likely pass through Cali since it is located on the Pan American highway.

Cali was founded in 1536 and was historically a hub for agriculture and cattle. Cali controlled Colombia’s only Pacific coast port. The port in combination with the sugar industry attracted many Afro-Caribbeans and other immigrants over the years, contributing to Cali’s unique heritage. In the 1950s and 1960s the flourishing industrial scene attracted additional waves of immigration.

Cali is called the “Capital de la Salsa” and is famous for salsa music and dancing. You’ll find locals dancing a particular style – salsa caleña, characterized by its faster pace and intricate footwork that set it aside from salsa styles elsewhere in the world. Salsa arrived here in the mid-twentieth century, when rhythms from Cuba crossed the Caribbean and reached Cali.

My Trip to Cali, Colombia

Arriving in Cali

I began my journey to Cali from Salento, changing buses in Armenia. On the bus, the passenger in the row next to me was so thrilled about the onboard Wi-Fi that he shared the password with me unprompted. Our journey hit a snag when traffic came to a standstill due to an accident. As we passed through the accident site, all that remained were a fallen motorcycle and a woman sobbing hysterically, sending a chill down my spine.

A few hours later, I arrived in Cali, not knowing what to expect. Initially, I had planned to skip Cali based on misconceptions that there wasn’t much for tourists to do and that it was unsafe (both of which I can now confirm are false). I was also nervous about my hostel, which I had paid only $5 per night for, in contrast to the typical $10-20 range I was accustomed to in Colombia.

My Hostel in Cali, Colombia

My fears dissipated upon arriving at the hostel. I was pleasantly surprised to find it conveniently located near the historic center, including a charming terrace, and offering complimentary dance classes. What struck me even more was the fact that all the foreign guests at the hostel spoke fluent Spanish. Half of them were dating local Colombians, which somewhat explained this. 

Shortly after my arrival, the hostel hosted a salsa class. Although I’ve danced salsa competitively for many years, I never had the chance to learn Cali style (salsa caleña) and was instantly in love. After the class I walked around the city center with a new friend from the hostel, mimicking the locals by grabbing beers and fried street food for the walk. My favorite part of the walk was an enormous trumpet monument; when standing under the bells, you hear different classic salsa songs.

I returned to the hostel to find everyone on the terrace, passing around bottles of Colombian rum and smokes. There was also a show-and-tell of everyone’s shopping finds for the day, and I was impressed by the high-quality clothing everyone had scored for as low as $1 per item.

Salsa Dancing in Cali, Colombia

Later in the evening, we headed out to La Topa Tolondra for some salsa dancing. One perk of our hostel was that we were given free entrance wristbands. We made a stop by another hostel (Viajeros) to pick up any stragglers who’d like to join our group, but we weren’t successful in convincing anyone to leave the admittedly lively Viajeros pool party.

At La Topa Tolondra, I danced a few times but mostly watched the talented locals of all ages skillfully dancing salsa caleña. In the early hours of the morning, we walked back to the hostel and stopped by a 24/7 bakery for local cheese pastries. Sadly, there were many beggars and homeless people in the streets. I regretted not following our hostel’s advice to never walk at night when we saw a group of men throwing a huge pile of papers into a fire they had built on the street.

Sightseeing and Leaving Cali

Unfortunately I had planned for only two half-days in Colombia, and I wished I had more time. To add to the sadness, my last day in Cali was also my final day in Colombia. 

I indulged in one last breakfast of huevos pericos at a local cafeteria before heading to the bus station to purchase my ticket for later that day. Initially, I panicked when I couldn’t find any tickets online. However, the more experienced travelers at the hostel reassured me that there were plenty of buses heading in that direction that weren’t posted online, and they were right. Feeling much calmer, I then strolled around the city center, which unfortunately was strewn with trash and populated by homeless people. The shopping areas and parks, while cleaner, were not particularly interesting.

Upon returning to the hostel, I attempted to plan my next month, considering a trip to Patagonia on the other side of the continent. Spoiler alert: I did end up going to Patagonia, but not until five months later. Everyone in the hostel laughed at my detailed planning, and I realized I still had much to learn about traveling as a backpacker.

It was then time to say goodbye to my new friends, and I made my way to the bus station. During the ride, I chatted with my Uber driver about my next destination. He shared a wealth of helpful information about the bus route; just another example of the friendliness of Cali locals!

I boarded the bus with a heavy heart, sad that my time in Colombia had come to an end and not knowing what to expect in my next destination, Ecuador.

Cali, Colombia Trip Planning Information

Things to Do in Cali, Colombia

My top recommendations for things to do in Cali are to spend a day seeing the sights near the city center, then going dancing or watching a salsa show at night. If you’re a dance lover, Cali is a great place for high quality and affordable lessons.

Explore Cali’s Neighborhoods

In El Peñon neighborhood, visit Parque de los Gatos, a park full of cat sculptures.

When in the city center, the main sights to visit are Iglesia Ermita, Plaza de Caicedo, and Parque Simón Bolívar. Don’t miss the Monumento Niche, which was constructed in honor of a famous salsa musician. The monument is shaped like trumpets and trombones, and when you step under the bells, you’ll hear each one playing a different song!

Also make sure to walk around the charming San Antonio neighborhood, and visit its church and park. For an authentic shopping experience, check out Parque Artesanal Loma de La Cruz, a park with vendors selling artisanal products.

Salsa Dancing in Cali, Colombia

I recommend heading to La Topa Tolondra for salsa dancing. If you don’t feel like dancing, you can still enjoy a drink and be impressed by the locals!

If you’d prefer to leave the dancing to professionals, head to El Delirio. This is Cali’s most famous salsa show; a combination of dance, music, and circus performances. Tickets start at 150,000 COP (38 USD) and the venue is a ~30 min drive from the center of town.

If you have the time, take a dance class at a local studio. Private lessons are very affordable, and if you’ll be staying for a while, local studios host social events where you can practice.

Shopping

In Cali, Colombia, the streets of the city center are full of vendors selling everything you could possibly want at very low prices. There are also many malls (centro commercial) in the center and in the neighborhoods north of the center.

Cristo Rey

For an aerial panorama of Cali, head to Cristo Rey, which is free to enter. This giant Christ structure is 85 ft (26 m) tall and located at the top of a hill. It’s possible and safe to walk there, but you might not want to since the walk is 1 h 45 min and uphill. An Uber or taxi will take you there in ~15 min for 20,000 – 30,000 COP (5.10 – 7.65 USD). 

To get to Cristo Rey by public transportation, take the MIO bus A04 for 2,700 COP (0.70 USD). Ride the bus to the entrance of the Bellavista neighborhood, from where you can catch a Jeep or Chiva bus for ~ 4,000 COP (1 USD). They’ll drop you off about 10 min from the entrance.

Cerro de las Tres Cruces

For another great view of Cali, Colombia, hike to Cerro de las Tres Cruces. The hike is 2.5 mi (4 km) and 1,300 ft (400 m) elevation gain. The trail starts near El Peñon, and depending on where you’re staying you may be able to walk or take public transportation there. For safety reasons, it’s best to do the Cerro de las Tres Cruces hike when there are a lot of other people on the trail, such as on weekend mornings.

Waterfalls and Rivers Near Cali, Colombia

If you’re craving an escape in nature, Cali has some fantastic rivers and jungles nearby to explore. These areas are hard to get to by public transportation, so I would suggest going with a tour. Head to the Jordan River to enjoy waterfalls and natural jacuzzis, or San Cipriano for river tubing and to experience a unique local form of rail transport.

How Long to Stay

If you’re a dance lover, you could spend weeks in Cali, Colombia. I considered dropping all of my plans and extending my stay…that’s how good the dancing was. If not, 1 day is sufficient to see the major sights and enjoy a night out.

Cali, Colombia Weather

Cali is warm year round with cool nights. Dry season is June – September, and to a lesser extent, January to February.

Festivals in Cali, Colombia

From December 25-30, Cali celebrates La Feria de Cali (The Cali Fair), which includes parades, concerts, and cultural events.

Cali, Colombia Hotels and Where to Stay

I recommend staying in El Peñon or San Antonio, which are safe neighborhoods that are also close to tourist attractions. Other safe neighborhoods are: Centro, San Cayetano, Granada, Versailles, and Juanambú. I’ve recommended some safe places to stay below.

Budget:
Viajero Hostel Cali & Salsa School. They have a nice courtyard with a bar and pool, which will be refreshing on Cali’s hot afternoons. You can also take salsa classes with them, and the environment is very social. Choose from dorms or private rooms.

Mid-range:
Casa Ruta Sur. This guesthouse has beautifully furnished private rooms and a courtyard.

Luxury:
Hotel Stein Colonial. This hotel is ideally located next to the park and feels like an oasis in the city with its pool and garden.

Where to Eat and Drink

Cali is a big city with a lot of restaurants; you’ll find both western and traditional options, especially in the center. I was pleased to find many high quality vegetarian restaurants, such as La Casona Vegetariana, offering affordable lunches.

When in Cali, try some of the regional specialties:

• Pan de bono: bite-sized cheese bread 
• Cholado: shaved ice with fresh fruit
• Aborrajado: fried plantain stuffed with cheese

Tap water in Cali, Colombia is safe to drink, but if you’re very sensitive consider bringing your own LifeStraw water filter.

Is Cali, Colombia Safe?

While Cali is often unfairly labeled as dangerous, doing your research and taking necessary precautions significantly reduces the likelihood of any safety issues.

First of all, know which areas to avoid and choose your accommodation in a safe area. Safe areas include the historic center, neighborhoods above and to the east of Parque San Antonio, and the neighborhood north of Parque Simon Bolivar. 

Avoid Communes 13, 15, and 21, which are unsafe. These neighborhoods are far from the city center and touristic areas, so it’s unlikely you will stumble across them unless you intentionally venture there. 

When arriving in Cali, ask your accommodation for the latest safety information. Don’t walk late at night, even in a group. Take a licensed taxi or Uber. Lastly, keep an eye on your belongings when walking through San Pedro (the neighborhood above the center, including the park), which is a hotspot for petty crime. 

Check out my Colombia safety guide for more tips, and make sure you have travel insurance.

Budget and Money

Cali is not a touristic city, and prices will be lower than those in Medellín or Cartagena. Many touristic activities are free.

ATMs are widely available near the center, but don’t carry around large quantities of cash.

What to Bring to Cali, Colombia

For a full list of what to bring, refer to my Colombia packing list. I would stress the following:

• Downloaded maps of Cali and nearby areas you want to visit (use Google Maps or MapsME)
• SIM or eSIM card
• Rain jacket (Women’s, Men’s)
• Hat
• Sunscreen
• Mosquito spray. Surprisingly, there are many mosquitos in Cali’s city center.
• Shoes that you can dance salsa in. Sneakers are ok, but don’t wear sandals or hiking boots!

How to Get to Cali, Colombia

Check out my guide to transportation in Colombia for more information.

Flights to Cali, Colombia

There are direct flights to Cali from many other destinations in Colombia and also internationally.

Keep in mind that the Cali airport (CLO) is far from the city center. For peace of mind and a fixed price, reserve an airport transfer in advance. A taxi to the center will be 50,000 – 60,000 COP (12.80 – 15.30 USD) and take ~30 min. Uber can’t enter airport terminals, so you’ll need to exit the airport to catch one.

A cheaper but slower option to get out from the airport is taking the bus, which will drop you off at the bus station near the center. There are 2 buses companies Rapido Aeropuerto and Expreso Palmira. Buses run every 20 min and cost 8,000 COP (2 USD).

How to Get to Cali by Bus

I recommend using BusBud to look up prices and bus routes to Cali.

Armenia to Cali: 3 hours. Add on an extra hour and bus connection if arriving from Salento.

Medellín to Cali: 8+ hours.

Bogotá to Cali: 11+ hours.

Ipiales (border with Ecuador) to Cali: 12 hours.

Getting from the bus station to the city center will take ~30 min by public transport (MIO bus line). However, a taxi or Uber will be faster (10-15 min) and safer when traveling with luggage.

How to Get Around Cali, Colombia

Uber is available in Cali, and it is cheaper and sometimes safer than taxis. Much of the safe areas near the center are walkable. 

You can also take the local bus line (MIO), which is 2,700 COP (0.70 USD) per ride. You’ll need to buy a card to load with money. Use Google Maps to look up the bus routes.

Where to Go Next

• Bogotá
• Medellín
• Salento and Valle de Cocora 
• Pasto: visit the unique Las Lajas sanctuary hanging on the edge of a canyon
• San Augustin: an archeological site called the “Andean Easter Island”
• Tierradentro: an archeological site with painted underground tombs
• Tatacoa desert: unique orange and red formations in the desert
• Ecuador: get there via the border town of Ipiales, Colombia

Thanks for reading! I hope this Cali, Colombia travel guide helps you plan your trip. Have you tried salsa dancing? Let me know your thoughts and questions, I’d love to hear from you in the comments.

For more Colombia travel tips and destination guides, head to my Colombia page.

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