Cartagena, Colombia

Cartagena, Colombia is the crown jewel of Colombia’s coastline and a vibrant melting pot of cultures. The city has a relaxed Caribbean vibe and offers a huge variety of activities for visitors. You can wander the streets through the colorful historical district, hang out in the modern Boca Grande neighborhood, or spend a day on the paradisiacal waters. 

However I’ll be honest, despite everything Cartagena has going for it, I personally struggled here. I blame that on being too tight with my budget, the sweltering heat, and succumbing to envy of the cute couples that seemed to be everywhere.

Keep reading to hear more about my experience in Cartagena. In this Cartagena travel guide I’ll also share trip planning information. With the right mindset and preparation, you can definitely have a better experience than I did!

For more Colombia travel tips and destination guides, head to my Colombia page.

Cartagena History

During the colonial era, Cartagena, Colombia was one of the most important ports in the Americas. It played a key role in the slave trade and was a major hub for exporting goods such as gold and silver. The city’s full name is Cartagena de Indias, to distinguish it from the city of Cartagena in Spain which it was named after. 

During the 17th and 18th centuries, after a series of pirate attacks, a 6.8 mi (11 km) wall was constructed around the city in addition to a defensive castle. The colonial architecture of this walled city is wonderfully preserved and Cartagena is a UNESCO world heritage site. Cartagena, Colombia declared its independence from Spain on November 11, 1811, and there is an annual festival to commemorate this date.

My Cartagena, Colombia Trip Report

Getting to Cartagena from Santa Marta

I began my journey to Cartagena from Santa Marta. I left Santa Marta reluctantly, wishing I had an extra day to explore the city. At the time I was only in week two of what would be a year-long journey through South America. As a novice backpacker and chronic over-planner, I hadn’t yet  embraced spontaneous travel and was committed to a non-refundable hostel reservation in Cartagena. 

I made my way to the Santa Marta bus station, where vendors aggressively called out destination names and chased after anyone who looked like a tourist. I got on the cheapest bus I could find, which conveniently left just moments after I boarded. Thankfully, the bus was comfortably air conditioned. However, looking through the windows, the heat of the sun was palpable as it beat upon the roadside shacks, vendors, and dirt roads flanked with debris.

Barranquilla to Cartagena

The bus stopped at Barranquilla, where we were instructed to transfer to a different bus. In Santa Marta I allowed myself to be rushed onto the bus by the vendor and forgot to ask whether the route to Cartagena was direct. On the second leg of the journey, the woman sitting next to me downed several drinks, spilled beer on me, and yelled nonsense at the other passengers on the bus. I was relieved when we finally arrived at the Cartagena bus station. 

Unfortunately, the Cartagena bus station is far from the city center. I didn’t feel experienced enough yet to take the local bus and I didn’t want to splurge on a taxi, so I opted for a moto taxi. Traffic was bad, and I tried to calm my nerves as the driver narrowly wove between cars and ran through red lights. I didn’t feel any better when it started to rain heavily and an electric scooter in front of us slipped and fell, the passenger badly cutting his face. We decided to wait out the rain under a covered storefront before finally arriving at my hostel.

City Sights in Cartagena, Colombia

On my first full day in Cartagena, I woke up early and went for a walk before the heat started. I was surprised to find the streets already full of well-dressed tourists posing for social media photos. I felt self-conscious in my simple backpacker clothes, so I did some shopping and ended up buying two lightweight dresses. Although these were impulsive purchases, I got good use out of the dresses. I ended up wearing them almost daily in warm destinations later in my trip!

In the afternoon, I intended to continue my “Tinder while traveling” experiment and had plans to meet a digital nomad from the US for drinks. I ended up getting stood up. An hour later I received a message from him claiming he was running late, only for him to unmatch me shortly after. I’ll never understand why some people lack basic courtesy.

Luckily I still had time to catch the sunset, so I went to the old city wall for the best view. The ambiance was lively, but seeing all the couples enjoying the sunset together made me feel a twinge of jealousy.

Cartagena City Tour

I started the next day by walking through the public park, where I saw one of the eight resident sloths lounging in a tree. I made my way over to a free walking tour, where I have bravely opted for the Spanish group over the English one. Although the guide was excellent, our group was large and we spent far too much time waiting to get started and for everyone to introduce themselves. By the time we were walking around the city I was melting in the heat, unable to absorb much information. I spent the rest of the day hiding out in an air conditioned shopping center.

Rosario Islands and Leaving

I spent my third day in Cartagena out on the water and visiting the Rosario Islands.

On day 4, it was time to leave Cartagena. I’m a little ashamed to say that I wasn’t able to fully appreciate the city and was relieved to move on. Also, I’m ashamed to admit that I flew from Cartagena to Medellín. Looking back as an experienced backpacker, I’m cringing because I could have taken an overnight bus for a fraction of the cost and carbon footprint of a flight. 

Join me next time when I land in Medellín!

Cartagena, Colombia Trip Planning Information

Things to Do in Cartagena, Colombia

Rosario Islands

Take a break from the hot and crowded city on a day tour to the picturesque Rosario Islands, located off the coast of Cartagena.

Go on a Sunset Cruise

I really wanted to do a sunset cruise in Cartagena, but it was sold out during my visit! I can’t think of a better way to end a day than watching the sunset from the water with a drink in hand. The sunset cruise is also very affordable compared to full-day boat tours.

Watch the Sunset from the City

If you’re staying in the city for sunset, head to the old city wall near Café del Mar. Vendors sell drinks in this area, but to splurge go to Café del Mar.

Beaches

Personally, I’d skip local Cartagena beaches in favor of visiting the Rosario islands. Local beaches won’t be as impressive, especially if you have already visited or are planning to visit Tayrona National Park. However if you have time to spare, here are some nice beaches to escape from the heat of the city:

Bocagrande, a ~15 min bus or taxi ride from the historic center.

Playa Blanca on the nearby Isla Baru is a 40 min boat ride from Cartagena, Colombia. You can also spend the day at a beach club on Playa Blanca.

Historic Center of Cartagena, Colombia

Cartagena’s historic center is small and can be explored on foot in less than a day. I recommend doing a free walking tour (please tip your guide!) to discover hidden gems and learn more about the fascinating history of Cartagena.

See the Sloths

There are 8 adorable sloths living in the trees of Parque del Centenario in Cartagena’s center. Keep an eye out for monkeys too!

Explore Getsemani

The Getsemani neighborhood of Cartagena, Colombia is full of beautiful street art and has a bohemian feel. Join a free walking tour to explore all of the graffiti artwork. 

As usual, please be an informed and respectful tourist. Getsemani’s thriving art scene and boutique hotels were once home to a slum plagued by drugs, crime, violence, and prostitution. When Cartagena de Indias was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1984, gentrification began. Sadly, today only 16% of the neighborhood’s original inhabitants remain.

Visit the Castle

Just outside of Cartagena’s historic center is the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas. Entrance is 30,000 COP (7.65 USD), and the castle is open daily from 7 AM to 6 PM.

Visit the Palenqueras

The Palenqueras are the women who dress in colorful traditional clothing and sell fruits and sweets in the streets of the historical center. Make sure to tip them for a unique photo opportunity.

These hard working ladies are the descendents of African slaves. Historically, Palenqueras come from San Basilio de Palenque, a village 2 hours from Cartagena. Palenqueras would travel into Cartagena to sell their produce. San Basilio de Palenque was founded in the 1600s by Africans who escaped from a capsized slave ship, and the community grew as it attracted fugitive slaves. Palenque was the first free town in the Americas!

If you’re interested in learning more, there are tours to Palenque available.

Escape the Heat in a Cafe

Cartagena, Colombia gets hot, and you’ll want to plan out a few places where you can escape from the heat. Thankfully there are many cute cafes and shops to choose from, such as Ábaco Libros y Café.

Shopping in Cartagena, Colombia

Cartagena is an excellent place to buy affordable, high quality, and locally made clothing. You’ll find tons of options, especially for lightweight clothing with unique and colorful prints.

Nightlife in Cartagena, Colombia

Cartagena has no shortage of bars and clubs, but these will be expensive if you’re a budget traveler. For a cheaper night out, visit Plaza de la Trinidad. Here you’ll find street performers, music, and vendors selling street food and drinks.

For an authentic experience, join a Chiva bus party. These open-air party buses will take you on a night tour of Cartagena, complete with music and drinks.

Other Excursions from Cartagena, Colombia

There’s a variety of excursions and day trips you could take from Cartagena, Colombia. One popular activity is scuba diving. Although I’m a scuba diver, I decided not to dive near Cartagena after seeing the sad state of the reefs on the Rosario islands. However if you’re a beginner and want to try diving for the first time, Cartagena would be a good place to learn. Visibility is good, and the water is calm and warm.

Another popular excursion is the mud volcano tour.

How Long to Stay in Cartagena, Colombia

Spend a minimum of 2 – 3 days in Cartagena, Colombia. If you plan on doing many excursions, add more time. For low budget backpackers like myself, you may want to consider spending less time in Cartagena and heading to a more affordable beach town instead.

Cartagena Weather and When to Go

Cartagena is hot and humid year round, both day and night. Plan any outdoor and walking activities in the morning or in the late afternoon to beat the heat, and book an accommodation with AC. 

December to April is the dry season in Cartagena. My visit was in August, but the infrequent rain didn’t interfere with my plans too much.

Cartagena, Colombia Festivals

November 11th is Independence day in Cartagena, Colombia. The festivities include parades, cultural events, concerts, and even a beauty pageant. 

In March, the city celebrates the Cartagena Film Festival.

Cartagena Hotels and Where to Stay

I recommend staying in one of the following areas of Cartagena: the center, San Diego, or Getsemani neighborhoods. From these neighborhoods, you can easily walk to many of Cartagena’s attractions. Bocagrande, Laguito, and Castillo Grande neighborhoods are not walking distance from major attractions, but they are more modern and next to the beach.

Also, I wouldn’t try to pinch pennies on accommodation in Cartagena, Colombia. Booking a cheap accommodation without AC or a pool will leave you miserable in the hot and humid weather. If you’re a budget traveler, book a hostel with a kitchen since meals out in Cartagena are expensive.

Budget: 
Casa Del Pozo Boutique Hostel. This hostel is located in the artistic Getsemani neighborhood and serves a fabulous breakfast.
The Clock Hostel & Suites. Unbeatable central location and free breakfast.

Mid-range:
Hotel Boutique Las Carretas. This hotel is centrally located and has spacious, colonial-chic style rooms.
Casa Zahri Boutique Hostel. Located in Getsemani, offering both private rooms and dorms.

Luxury:
Hotel Casona del Porvenir. Located in the center, with a beautiful pool and modern rooms.
Bastión Luxury Hotel. A beautiful and centrally located place to stay.

Bonus: For a unique experience, stay in an eco-hostel in the middle of the ocean (Casa en el Agua). You’ll arrive there by boat from Cartagena.

Where to Eat and Drink

In general, eating out in Cartagena is expensive, especially close to the city center and in touristic areas. Unfortunately, Cartagena’s local market (Mercado de Bazurto) is located far from the touristic area. Street food is plentiful and affordable, although aside from snacks there may not be many vegetarian options. 

Cartagena, Colombia is very popular with tourists from all over the world and you will find many different types of cuisine. For a taste of local cuisine, try some fresh seafood and coconut rice! Also try the cocadas sold by vendors in the city center. Cocadas are sweets made with shredded coconut, and they come in a variety of flavors.

Tap water in Cartagena is typically safe to drink, but if you have a sensitive stomach stick to bottled or filtered water. Alternatively, bring your own LifeStraw water filter.

Is Cartagena, Colombia Safe?

Cartagena is generally safe and is very popular with tourists. As a solo female traveler, I didn’t have any issues here. Most of the streets in the center and Getsemani are filled with tourists from morning until late at night. Avoid walking alone through quiet areas. 

Beware of petty crime in the center, San Diego, and in Getsemani. Petty crime is less of an issue in the Bocagrande, Laguito, and Castillo Grande neighborhoods.

Be careful if you want to venture out into the heart of the city (past the San Felipe fort), as these areas are not always safe for tourists.

Check out my Colombia safety guide for more tips, and make sure you have travel insurance.

Budget and Money

There are many ATMs in Cartagena, Colombia, which is useful since many vendors only accept cash. For safety reasons, avoid carrying around large amounts of cash.

Cartagena is one of the most expensive tourist destinations in Colombia, so plan your budget accordingly! Figure out which tours you want to do ahead of time and their costs.

What to Bring to Cartagena, Colombia

For a full list of what to bring, refer to my Colombia packing list. I would stress the following:

• Downloaded maps of Cartagena and nearby areas you want to visit (use Google Maps or MapsME)
• SIM or eSIM card
• Mosquito spray
• Hat
• Sunscreen
• Light, breathable clothing. Alternatively, shop for some once you arrive in Cartagena!
• Bring a nicer outfit if you’ll be going to nightclubs and bars. Tourists in Cartagena love to dress up. Ladies, there is no need to wear heels, but please don’t head to a night out in your flip flops or hiking boots.

How to Get to Cartagena, Colombia

Check out my guide to transportation in Colombia for more information.

How to Get to Cartagena, Colombia by Bus

I recommend using BusBud to look up prices and bus routes to Cartagena.

Santa Marta to Cartagena: 4+ hours

Bogotá to Cartagena: 22+ hours

Medellín to Cartagena: 13+ hours

Cartagena’s bus station is far from the city center. It’s actually further than the airport!

To get from the bus station to the city center, you can take the Transcaribe orange and white buses. They are 3,000 COP (0.76 USD) plus a one-time fee for a rechargeable card. The ride to the center takes ~45 min. Line X104 will take you to 2 stations near the center (Centro or La Bodeguita). If you need to go further, transfer to lines X105 or T103 at La Bodeguita. The buses run frequently from 5 or 6 AM until 8 or 9 PM, daily. Check routes and hours on the Transcaribe website.

For an easier way to get from the bus station to the city center, grab a taxi. To Centro or Getsemaní, expect to pay 15,000 – 20,000 COP (3.82 – 5.10 USD) for a 20 min ride. Using a rideshare app or moto-taxi will be cheaper.

How to Get to Cartagena, Colombia by Shuttle

Berlinastur and Marsol run shuttles between Cartgena and Santa Marta. This is a good option because the shuttle terminals are much closer to the city centers than the bus stations, and the ride may be faster due to less stops. Tickets are 60,000 COP (15.30 USD). Shuttles leave frequently, and there’s no need to reserve them in advance. Just show up at the terminal, which should be a short taxi ride from your accommodation.

Flights to Cartagena, Colombia

You can fly direct from many domestic and international locations to Cartagena’s Rafael Núñez International Airport (CTG).

The easiest way to get from the airport to your accommodation would be to reserve an airport transfer in advance.

You can also take the Transcaribe buses described above. The bus stop is one block from the airport, at the corner of Calle 70 and Carrera 4. Line T102 goes to the center, stopping near “Parque Apolo” and a few blocks further down the road at “Boquete San Diego”. It’s a ~20 min bus ride from the airport to the city center.

Alternatively, take a taxi or rideshare from the airport to your accommodation. Taxis start from ~12,100 COP (3.09 USD) to go to Centro and Getsemani, and up to 20,700 (5.28 USD) to Bocagrande.

How to Get Around Cartagena, Colombia

If you’re staying near the center, most attractions in Cartagena, Colombia should be within walking distance. 

To go further, take the Transcaribe orange and white buses, which are 3,000 COP (0.76 USD) plus a one-time fee for the rechargeable card.

You can also get around by taxi. Rides typically start at ~8,800 COP (2.24 USD). Moto-taxi and rideshare apps will be cheaper.

Where to Go Next

• San Andrés and Providencia: fly to Colombia’s Caribbean islands.
• Santa Marta
• Tayrona National Park
• Minca
• Medellín
• Barranquilla. Visit the Caribbean city famous for its carnival in February. It’s also the hometown of Shakira. 
• Capurgana and Sapzurro: visit tropical beaches near the Darien gap with Panama. 
• Rincon del mar: a picturesque beach at a quiet fishing village.

Thanks for reading! I hope this Cartagena, Colombia travel guide was helpful. Have you ever had a disappointing experience in a destination that most tourists love? Let me know in the comments.
 
For more Colombia travel tips and destination guides, head to my Colombia page.

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